The blazer has always been our faithful companion on not so formal occasions, but neither, casual. This slightly more relaxed version of the classic formal jacket presents different formats that we can adapt to everyday situations -including our office outfits- This piece is present in different materials, colors and some more specific cuts: the nautical blazer, herringbone blazer (for the cold), and more relaxed in tissues such as piqué and linen. The previous thing doing mere reference in textiles and, in designs, blazers of one, two, three buttons and double buttoning; the crossed blazer.
The main difference of the crossed blazer lies in the structure: to require more fabric to make it, it will go directly to achieve the crossing of the leaves of the front of the piece and, consequently, you will need to wrap the garment at the height of the waist (where the crossing is achieved) to balance the silhouette and avoid a “boxy” cut across the torso. This last reference, perhaps, can be inconvenient when we tend to have a prominent abdomen, and, in fact, the crossing may not be achieved even if the blazer is our size.
The big fast-fashion chains and their imminent power in industrial tailoring we can find, for this season, a wide range of designs, fabrics and colors in double-breasted blazer. However, all retail has something in common: having been designed, exactly, in general patterns and under “proportional” and common standards that, most of the time, do not adapt to our body. But, to be able to identify if a crossed blazer benefits us or not, it is important to verify the following points:
Verify that the seam that joins the armhole with the sleeve fits well in place. To identify it, look for the exact point of union between the clavicle and the shoulder; there, you must pass the line.
The sleeve should end in the wrist bone to allow 1cm to protrude from the shirt. If the shoulder is in place, but the length of the sleeve extends beyond what is established, it is best to go to the tailor and correct the proportion.
NOW THE CROSS
If the shoulders are in place, the sleeves are “relatively” within the parameters and the crossing is not achieved, in short, the crossed blazer is not for you. Referring, of course, to that suit of stock. However, there are solutions to everything; You can start by testing the crossing, regardless of the previous points and make an appointment with an expert tailor to adapt shoulders and sleeves length according to the needs.
Finally, it is necessary to point out that the crossed blazer, due to the double breasts and the fabrics that are spliced one on top of the other, tends to generate too much volume in the abdominal area, so, if we have this area quite pronounced, avoid them and use a basic single-button.