January is the month of men’s fashion. During the first weeks of the year, the collections belonging to the future Fall / Winter season 19-20 were presented through the main fashion capitals of the world. Starting in London, making a special stop at Pitti Uomo, in Florence, continuing with Milan to finish at Paris Fashion Week. The trip presented us the proposals of designers and luxury brands of what the man will wear next autumn.
Milan, the fashion capital of Italy, gave us spectacular parades and impact collections. However, Paris could not be left behind. The City of Lights, for this day of presentations, we had prepared some surprises: as the first catwalk of Loewe and the premiere of Celine in the male field.
We took on the task of gathering the best 5 collections during Paris Fashion Week and the best looks of each firm.
Hedi Slimane, just at the beginning of 2000, took the reins of the male division of Dior, under the label “Dior Homme”. Slimane’s work completely revolutionized the silhouette of men’s fashion, through the construction of skinny codes on trousers and jeans. After years of absence, he resumed the creative direction of the now, Saint Laurent, to leave it only four years after his debut. Today, at the helm of Celine, the designer continues to apply his own codes in the first men’s collection of the French firm: leather pants, super-fitted jeans, leopard prints and booties are some of the rock and glam keys that will define man in his proposal for FW 19-20.
Under the command of a new creative director, the now, Dior Men presented his proposal for next fall in an exceptional way. A large electric band was responsible for moving the models of the catwalk; all, covered in dark colors and Couture details. The collection was rich in prints and figures of animals, such as leopard, puma or lynx. The punk winks were evident in the collection, through garments with harnesses, metallic details and sophisticated garments through the renovation of the craft traditions of the Dior tailoring shop.
In the style of the Billie Jean music video, was the perfect setting to present the second collection of Virgil Abloh at the head of the French luxury brand. Streetwear spirit clothing had the opportunity to express itself at its highest level, through incredible volumes and reliefs of the same Vuitton monogram in puffers jackets. The tailoring also had a special section thanks to baggy pants suits and blazers decorated with large pockets. The interesting fusion between tailoring and the codes of street and utility clothing created a visually harmonious mix.
Pierpaolo Piccioli has given the man Valentino the pleasure of wearing luxury clothes with sports codes. The designer’s proposal, for Fall / Winter 19-20, was inspired by the stories and texts of Edgar Alla Poe. The discovery of new worlds, time machines and spacecraft were responsible for the feat of Valentino, creating entire pieces in technical tailoring and atlheisure. The white tennis shoes and sandals became the star footwear of the season; with the intention of demonstrating that these basic ones will continue accompanying us throughout life.
The first Loewe show had high expectations (which were exceeded). The ingenuity and creativity of its designer, Jonathan Anderson, allowed strengthening the ties that the brand has with art and traditions. The collection paid tribute to different inspirations: from the Nordic fishermen’s clothing to the clothing of the cowboy of the Old West, in an eclectic mix of elements, textures and patterns. The textile experimentation, the proportions game and the styling in layering mode was the highlight of the whole delivery.