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What to expect from the debuts of #PFW menswear

Hedi Slimane debuts with menswear at  Céline, Kim Jones goes now to Dior Homme after  Louis Vuitton and Virgil Abloh establish himself in the brand.

Kim Jones is largely responsable of the clash between streetwear and high fashion. His latest collaboration with  Supreme for fall 2017 at Vuitton detonated what we have been already expecting: a fusion between two clothing hyperboles, in where the clothing from the streets got elevated into the highest quality and manufacture standards – adding to the mix some accessories borrowed from the skater scene very into the brands standards – not as a democratic symbol ( a €750.00  sweatshirt has more to do with the elite than in the streets ) but as an act of acknowledgement saying “look, the street style can also be applied to the luxury menswear”.

What Kim Jones gave to Vuitton was a very relaxed luxury , pragmatic and full of value in the tone that set the machine for the best selling luxury brand in the world. His last presentation for the brand was brilliant, literally. The textiles used for the trench coats con with the monogram were plastified in a glossy material and the shoes were finished in titanium ( ok, well some chromed material then). In his farewell, Kim was joined  by Naomi and Kate, two British heralds just like him for his rumored departure of the most British houses of them all: Burberry. At Dior, staying in the LVMH family after all , Kim Jones will find a brand with a very large historic heritage at its highest point of popularity and influence in menswear , having previously  Hedi Slimane as its creative director.

At the beginning of the past decade, after his first attempt for Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane gave to Dior menswear an extraordinary popularity. His most important legacy is still the skinny suit  –Karl Lagerfeld  dropped almost 90 pounds just to fit in one of them -, and stayed as a signature  for the maison for more than 11 years under Kris van Assche’s direction , protege of Hedi during his regime on the brand. After several years in the musical sphere and fashion photography, Slimane returned to Saint Laurent to recontextualize everything about the luxury brand with the largest inheritance and double the annual income during the short tree years thats he was occupying the post. During all that time, the most discreet of all, Phoebe Philo, did the same thing for Céline a luxury brand almost forgotten for eight years  under the command of terrible designers. Phoebe discarded all the files of the brand, even what was done by its founder, passing through the era of Michael Kors and the other misfortunes that occupied the place as creative directors to have a completely blank canvas without any more references than just the background she had as a former assistant design of Stella McCartney in Chloé and then as head of design in that same brand. Since her first collection in Céline, Phoebe Philo changed the course of fashion with a total beige influence and the return of minimalism and smart-dressing that lasted during the 10 years of her stay at Céline. Hedi was left with an intellectual emptiness left after Phoebe, but with a tremendous growth opportunity due to her totalitarianism and the new companies to face: the brand will open a line of haute couture, fragrances and menswear, which will debut in this summer’s Paris Menswear Fashion Week .

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Virgil Abloh has everything he need to win: his own brand with a popularity based more on his well placed contacts  than on its very forced proposal of cool, a strong CV and the fame that comes along with being the most popular designer among the musical elite of our times. His announcement as head of design in the menswear branch of Louis Vuitton was the most anticipated and obvious and has already showed last Monday at the MET gala the first pieces of the line since his arrival at the brand wearing them himself, being his best model and spokes person always. In the musical chairs game of fashion there has never been so much anticipation for the menswear front and with three heavyweights (two much heavier than another), expectations are so high. We will all be watching this summer from the fashion capital.

una marca propia con una popularidad basada más en su cartera de amigos que en su forzada propuesta del cool, un currículum bien fuerte y la fama que viene con ser el diseñador más popular entre la élite musical de nuestros días. Su anuncio como jefe de diseño en la rama de menswear de Louis Vuitton era la más anticipada y obvia y ya mostró el pasado lunes en la gala del MET las primeras piezas de la línea desde su llegada a la marca usándolas él mismo, siendo su mejor modelo y spoke person siempre. En el juego de las sillas musicales de la moda nunca se había tenido tanta anticipación en el frente masculino y con tres pesos pesados (dos mucho más pesados que otro), las expectativas son altísimas. Todos estaremos al pendiente este verano desde la capital de la moda.

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